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Intro to Alpine Rock

Location: The Tooth, Snoqualmie Pass, WA

Total Cost: $1600

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4 days
Duration
Type

HighLights

Overview

Itinerary

Gear list

Qualifications

FAQs

What’s Included

Overview

Intro to Alpine Rock is our intro to alpine rock climbing. This course puts the students in the leadership seat as they go from sport and trad cragging to multi pitch climbing on easy grade alpine rock. The course starts with a crag day going over the core principles of good multipitch climbing. From then on the group will head over to Snoqualmie pass for the rest of the course to climb and learn on classic alpine moderates.

Itinerary

Day 1: Ground School

Meet at Little Si Trailhead in the morning (exact time TBD by instructor). A Discover Pass is required for parking. Following introductions and a thorough gear check, we will do a short hike to the British Isles/Repo Rocks area to learn and practice fundamentals in a single pitch trad environment and allow participants to get in some climbing. Skills covered will include:

  • Proper cam and nut placement (including cleaning gear as a follower)
  • Constructing 3-piece gear anchors
  • Belay techniques and review of multi-pitch transitions

We will allot time for each participant to mock lead a route, belay a second climber from above and anchor them in (to simulate a multi-pitch climbing scenario), then lower the second climber back to the ground.

The evening will be spent at a nearby campground in the Snoqualmie Pass area (TBD). Other skills (such as rope coiling, general rope management, using monolithic, natural anchors) can possibly be practiced depending on the capacity of the group at the end of the day.

Camping with the group is not required for this course. Those who prefer to seek out their own lodging and sleep indoors can do so. Accommodations outside of the group campsite will be the responsibility of individual participants.

We will plan to debrief as a group either at the trailhead or at the campground and discuss a plan for the second day.

Day 2: More Ground School or Easy/Moderate Alpine Climb

Depending on the skills covered and practiced the first day, we may choose to do another ground school day at British Isles/Repo Rocks or another crag to refine certain techniques or teach other skills.

The other option will be to start very early in the morning and attempt our first alpine rock climb in the area (likely the South Face of The Tooth or the West Ridge of Lundin Peak). A Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful Pass is required to park at the trailheads for these climbs.

Participants who are ready will be given the opportunity to lead a pitch or part of the route within their skill level.

At the end of the day, we will plan to debrief as a group either at the trailhead or at the campground and discuss a plan for the third day.

Day 3: Easy/Moderate Alpine Climb

We will make an attempt at our first (or second, if climbed the previous day) alpine rock route of the course starting early in the morning to give ourselves plenty of daylight to complete the climb and descend safely.

Participants who are ready will be given the opportunity to lead a pitch or part of the route within their skill level, as well as lead some of the descent (under the supervision of an instructor).

At the end of the day, we will plan to debrief as a group either at the trailhead or at the campground and discuss a plan for the final day.

Day 4: Easy/Moderate Alpine Climb or Ground School/Skills Review

Depending on the itinerary of the previous two days and the energy level of the group, we may choose to attempt another alpine rock route (if only one route has been attempted by the last day) or spend the morning at the crag refining techniques that maybe did not get utilized as much on our alpine routes (such as terrain belays and natural anchors, constructing gear anchors, specific rope management techniques, etc.).

On the way back into town, we will plan to debrief and celebrate with a group meal.

Gear List

All gear listed is mandatory unless noted as “optional.” There will also be shared team gear (ropes, snow pickets, shovels) that participants will need to help carry to basecamp. Make sure to allot space for these items when packing (especially when choosing a backpack). Please reach out to your instructor with any questions or concerns regarding gear.

Required Fitness & Physical Qualifications

Each participant must meet the following minimum physical standards:

Leading and belay
Sport climbing indoors or outdoors to a 5.9 level
Trad Climbing Experience
Completed an intro to trad climbing course, familiarity with cleaning trad protection
Rappelling
Must have experience rappelling with a "3rd hand backup"

FAQs 

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Alpine

Skills Levels

Beginner
You’ve mainly done day hikes, and maybe an overnight backpacking trip. You may or may not have experience in the alpine.
Intermediate
You’ve done snow hiking and snow shoeing. You might have done several climbs where you used an ice axe and understand the basics of self arrest and team arrest.
Advanced
You have crossed many glaciers or and climbed pitches of rock and snow. You have backpacked with a 50-60lbs pack for more than a weekend and covered long miles in the hills. You own most of your own layers and can use them to match conditions.
Expert
You have spent a week or more backpack camping. You have been to 14,000ft + many times. You have crossed many glaciers. You have climbed ice, you have climbed rock and rappelled. You might have a first aid or rescue course.